Lot 178B
Elsa Peretti (Italian, 1940-2021). Pair of silver earrings. Marked "TIFFANY + CO.," "PERETTI," and "STERLING" on periphery of each. An elegant pair of vintage sterling silver earrings, designed by the renowned Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Each fit with a clip-on or omega back, the lustrous earrings feature the same minimalist, organic form that defines Peretti's timeless style with a rounded body and slight indentation near the lower right, resembling a modified version of Peretti's iconic "Bean" design. One of her first works for Tiffany & Co., Peretti's "Bean" was first introduced in the early 1970s and was intended as a symbol of life's origins. According to the Tiffany's website, " A beautifully humble form, the bean's simple shape, natural contours and smoothness always appealed to her. The sculptural, organic collection captures Peretti's signature talent for creating irresistibly tactile objects that remind us of the beauty inherent in nature." Size of earring (both the same): 1" W x 0.8" H (2.5 cm x 2 cm); silver quality: sterling; total weight: 15.4 grams
Born and raised in Rome, Florence, and Switzerland, Elsa Peretti was determined to forge her own path from that of her wealthy, conservative family. She began her working life at 23 as an Italian teacher and ski instructor, before moving to Milan to pursue a degree in interior design and an apprenticeship with the architect Dado Torrigiani. After just a year, she changed course again and started modeling, first in Barcelona and then in New York City. She quickly fell into New York's inner circle of fashion girls, becoming one of designer Halston's favorite models alongside other household names of the late '70s scene, including Angelica Huston, Pat Cleveland, and Karen Bjornson, and eventually joining Andy Warhol's Studio 54 crowd. At the suggestion of Halston, she began designing sculptural silver jewelry crafted to encase and highlight the liquid curves of the female form. The designer began working Born and raised in Rome, Florence, and Switzerland, Elsa Peretti was determined to forge her own path from that of her wealthy, conservative family. She began her working life at 23 as an Italian teacher and ski instructor, before moving to Milan to pursue a degree in interior design and an apprenticeship with the architect Dado Torrigiani. After just a year, she changed course again and started modeling, first in Barcelona and then in New York City. She quickly fell into New York's inner circle of fashion girls, becoming one of designer Halston's favorite models alongside other household names of the late '70s scene, including Angelica Huston, Pat Cleveland, and Karen Bjornson, and eventually joining Andy Warhol's Studio 54 crowd. At the suggestion of Halston, she began designing sculptural silver jewelry crafted to encase and highlight the liquid curves of the female form. The designer began working with Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and over time her pieces came to account for about 10% of the company's sales. She was named the company's lead jewelry designer in 1979. Peretti's works are now held in the permanent collections of many important museums such as the British Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts Boston and the Museum of Fine Arts Houston.
Tiffany & Co.'s "About" page for the artist reads, "The arrival of Elsa Peretti at Tiffany & Co. in 1974 signaled a revolution in jewelry design. On the day her first collection debuted, it sold out and elevated sterling silver to luxury status overnight. A true pioneer of design, her unique creations had a never-before-seen organic aesthetic... Having forever changed the way women wear jewelry, Peretti's legacy will remain constant source of inspiration."
History of Tiffany & Co: "Founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and Teddy Young in New York City in 1837 as a 'stationery and fancy goods emporium,' the store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items, and operated as Tiffany, Young & Ellis in Lower Manhattan.
The name was shortened to Tiffany & Co. in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control, and the firm's emphasis on jewelry was established. Tiffany & Co. has since opened stores in major cities all over the world. Unlike other stores at the time in the 1830s, Tiffany clearly marked the prices on its goods, as there would be no haggling for the price. In addition, against the social norm at the time, Tiffany only accepted cash payments, and did not accept payments on credit.
The first Tiffany's mail order catalog, known as the 'Blue Book,' was published in 1845 in the United States and it is still being published today. In 1862, Tiffany & Co. supplied the Union Army with swords (Model 1840 Cavalry Saber), flags and surgical implements. In 1867, Tiffany & Co. was the first US firm to win an award for excellence in silverware at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. In 1877, an insignia that would become the famous New York Yankees 'NY' logo was struck on a medal of honor by Tiffany & Co. and issued to the first NYC police officer shot in the line of duty. The Yankees adopted the logo in 1909. In 1878, Tiffany won the gold medal for jewelry and a grand prize for silverware at the Paris Exposition, which gave the Tiffany name added prestige. In 1868, Tiffany was incorporated. In 1887, Tiffany bought the French Crown Jewels which attracted publicity and further solidified the Tiffany brand's connection to quality diamonds. The company revised the Great Seal of the United States in 1885. In 1902, after the passing of Charles Lewis Tiffany, his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany became the company's first official Design Director." (Source: raresterling.com)
Provenance: private Broomfield, Colorado, USA collection
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#183071
- Condition: Marked "TIFFANY + CO.," "PERETTI," and "STERLING" on periphery of each. Some light scratches to surface commensurate with age and wear, but otherwise both earrings are intact, in overall excellent condition, and wearable. Accompanied by a blue Tiffany & Co. bag.
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