Lot 245B
Native American, Central Plains, probably Lakota, Arapaho, or S. Cheyenne, ca. 1880s to 1920s CE. A beaded moose skin wedding dress, typical of the stylings of various Plains Indian tribes, decorated with a wide beaded collar that extends down the shoulders and features a beautiful eight-pointed star on each shoulder and stylized stepped tipi and abstract cross motifs on the collar - comprised of red, green, and translucent yellow beads against a white beaded ground. Size: 52" L x 34" W (132.1 cm x 86.4 cm); collar measures 29" L x 6" W at widest (73.7 cm x 15.2 cm)
The dress is further decorated with a long white hide fringe trim that adds 12" (30.5 cm) to the dimensions (note the elegant zigzag hem) as well as appliqued tassels comprised of long strands of hide fringe that are accentuated by circular brass and 2" L (5.1 cm) cylindrical bone beads. Adding interest at the waist, the upper mantle is sewn to the lower skirt with woven x-patterned sinew threads. Furthermore, a double layered matching belt cinches the waist. The forms and iconography of such dresses are replete with layers of meaning. The u-shaped collar here, for example, is symbolic of the turtle. In Sioux myths, a turtle emerging from a lake "is regarded as a protective power which ensures good health," Porsche, Audrey, Yuto'keca: Transitions, The Burdick Collection, State Historical Society of North Dakota, 1987, p. 41. Given this dress's refined design and elaborate decorative program, it was created for a special occasion, in this case a wedding. Fancifully decorated and designed dresses have also traditionally been made for naming ceremonies (when an individual receives a name in their native language), honoring giveaways (when special objects are given away in honor of someone), and powwows (Native dance competitions and festivals).
To make a dress like this required a tremendous amount of time and work. First, men had to hunt for the animals from which the hide came - typically deer or elk for dresses and shirts - because the hide was relatively thin. Thicker buffalo hides were used as robes or blankets. The indigenous of the Plains have always fostered a strong kinship with nature and its resources, showing great respect for these animals by offering prayers of gratitude for the life of the animal, its spiritual presence, and the food, clothing, shelter, etc. that it would provide. This practice continues today, as Sioux and Assiniboine men say traditional prayers and make tobacco offerings believed to help deliver the prayer, and vow to make sound use of the animal. Next, the women prepared the animal hides by removing the hair and tanning the skin. Following this, the hides were decorated. Initially, the indigenous painted clothing with pigments from the natural environment and added natural elements like quills for further decoration. However, once traders introduced glass beads to the Plains Indians, heavily beaded dresses like this example became popular and were eventually regarded as the traditional style of clothing for Plains women.
Please note that a similar Sioux beaded and fringed hide dress sold at Christie's New York for $31,070 (Sale 1389 - 23 June 2004) - Follow this link - http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/a-sioux-beaded-and-fringed-hide-dress-4305153-details.aspx Elaborately decorated dresses like this example were also featured in the important 2007 exhibit "Identity by Design: Tradition, Change, and Celebration in Native Women's Dresses" at the National Museum of the American Indian in Washington D.C.
Provenance: Ex-Private Georgia Collection, purchased from Dan Burke (also known as the 'Chevron Bead Man')
All items legal to buy/sell under U.S. Statute covering cultural patrimony Code 2600, CHAPTER 14, and are guaranteed to be as described or your money back.
A Certificate of Authenticity will accompany all winning bids.
PLEASE NOTE: Due to recent increases of shipments being seized by Australian & German customs (even for items with pre-UNESCO provenance),
we will no longer ship most antiquities and ancient Chinese art to Australia & Germany. For categories of items that are acceptable to ship to Australia or Germany, please contact us directly or work with your local customs brokerage firm.
Display stands not described as included/custom in the item description are for photography purposes only and will not be included with the item upon shipping.
#119685
- Condition: Very minor wear and discoloration in a few areas, but beads and fringe appear to be all there. Overall excellent.
Accepted Forms of Payment:
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Shipping
Auction House will ship, at Buyer's expense
Artemis Fine Arts
You agree to pay a buyer's premium of 26.5% and any applicable taxes and shipping.
View full terms and conditions
| From: | To: | Increments: |
|---|---|---|
| $0 | $299 | $25 |
| $300 | $999 | $50 |
| $1,000 | $1,999 | $100 |
| $2,000 | $4,999 | $250 |
| $5,000 | $9,999 | $500 |
| $10,000 | $19,999 | $1,000 |
| $20,000 | $49,999 | $2,500 |
| $50,000 | $99,999 | $5,000 |
| $100,000 | $199,999 | $10,000 |
| $200,000 + | $20,000 |