Lot 60C
South Asia, Northwestern India or Pakistan, Mughal Empire, ca. late 19th century CE. A stunning gold foil ring inlaid with precious rubies, made from a high-quality gold 71.66% to 75.08% (equivalent to 17K+ to 18K) sheet that has been formed over a lac resin core- resulting in a lightweight piece of a substantial size! The face is symmetrically arranged with 17 rubies to resemble a lotus or peacock, the band tapers to the center and 12 cabochon rubies adorn the exterior. The amazing craftmanship of this piece indicates a courtly ring, worn on special occasions, with a combination of Iranian Islamic and Indian Hindu artistic practices that came together under the Mughal empire. Size of ring face: 1.28" L x 0.85" W (3.3 cm x 2.2 cm); band: 1" Diameter x 0.11" W (2.5 cm x 0.3 cm); band opening: 0.8" Diameter (2 cm); US ring size 7.5; gold quality: 71.66% to 75.08% (equivalent to 17K+ to 18K); silver quality: 22.9% to 23.5%; weight: 11.5 grams
When the Mughals conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills of setting gems and incorporated the traditional Indian styles of goldwork - including Kundan - into their jewelry that contained Middle Eastern elements - such as intricate floral patterns and heavy stonework, as seen here. Kundan stones (Kundan meaning "highly refined gold") is the traditional North Indian Rajasthan way of setting gemstones in a gold foil between the other stones, and the pure molten gold helped achieve the tight setting. Jewelry was a crucial part of visual authority for Mughal rulers, and strategic marriages between Mughal royalty and members of Rajput aristocracy were often arranged - for both political reasons and Rajasthan's renowned jewelry production. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear opulent jewelry.
Provenance: private Boynton Beach, Florida, USA collection; ex-Rajiv Mehra collection, New Delhi, India
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#174611
- Condition: Slight bending / mishappening to band shank. Tiny tears to gold foil around ruby inlays. Surface abrasions and nicks to ruby on face inlays, otherwise great condition and wearable!
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