Lot 43
Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, or Turkmenistan, Turkoman (Turkman) or Tekke peoples, ca. late 20th century CE. A woman's ceremonial headdress made from a woven cotton cap covered with glass cabochons and brass ornaments, chains, dangling pendants, coins, and bells. At the crown is a domed finial known as a gupba, and a cloth covering the nape of the neck. While the majority of the jewelry is nickel-brass, some of the larger medallions are fire gilded and chased, the gold ranging from 5% to 20% on several. Size of cap: 7" Diameter x 11" H (17.8 cm x 27.9 cm); hanging neck flap adds 18" L (45.7 cm); gold quality: 5% to 20%
The Tekke were nomadic people that were skilled riders and silversmiths, the beautiful jewelry was a hallmark of elite members of Turkoman society. From the Metropolitan Museum of Art's website "Turkmen Jewelry" August 2011: "Although nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual's passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children."
Provenance: private Reinsmoen collection, Clear Lake, Iowa, USA, acquired through descent from Robert Anderson, acquired prior to 2000
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#187639
- Condition: Patina and dark toning on metal areas. Losses to some dangling ornaments but does not affect overall presentation. Staining and discoloration to textile neck flap. Overall good condition.
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