Lot 100
**First Time At Auction**
Central Asia, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan or Kazakhstan, Uzbek people, ca. 19th to early 20th century CE. This is a large suzani bridal sheet known as a "ruijo" comprised of a cotton textile that is embroidered with silk couching in vibrant and interesting patterns, with an undecorated field in the center framed by the wide silk border at the sides and top. The foundation cloth is a white cotton hemmed with a black border; these hand-woven narrow panels are sewn together to create the large surface and left plain to highlight the embroidery. The silk patterning consists of repeating and symmetrical geometric and stylized floral shapes dyed fuchsia pink, mint green, and burgundy. Note that the silk embroidery forms an inverted U shape, and the center is bare of stitching - this is an intentional design. The ruijo suzanis were used as a woman's dowry and spread bridal couple's bed on the wedding night, the bare center marked the place of consummation. Size: 92" L x 68" W (233.7 cm x 172.7 cm)
The word suzani is derived from the Persian "suzan" which translates as needle and the fine art of creating such textiles is known as "suzandozi" or needlework. The hand-woven cotton cloth was only the foundation and often made from multiple panels in a plain "tea washed" hue. The patterns were drawn on, then the panels were often taken apart to enable more than one woman to carry out the embroidery at the same time; once complete the panels are sewn together - exemplified in this piece! The silk stiches create fine texture and sheen, and the process was time consuming. Suzanis were made by women for their daughter's dowry - which is the purpose of this bed sheet. The sewing of the ruijo bridal blanket began when the girl was young, so she could participate in the process and learn the skills required to pass on to her own daughters.
Provenance: ex-Ashland University Museum, Ashland, Ohio, USA, donated to Ashland University between July 1994 to December 1998
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#168577
- Condition: Staining and discoloration to cotton ground panel and silk threads. Some areas of fraying silk but most stitching is intact. Perforation through cotton panel near one corner. Overall good condition.
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