Lot 243A
Elsa Peretti (Italian, 1940 to 2021). Sterling Silver Right Bone Cuff Bracelet, 1978. Marked "PERETTI TIFFANY & CO (c) ITALY 1978 STERLING" on interior. Quite the vintage piece! Dating from 1978, a timeless sterling silver bracelet known as the "Bone Cuff" designed by the renowned Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Ergonomic yet elegant in its sublime asymmetry and sensuous contours, the Bone Cuff features a petite rise on the interior meticulously crafted to mimic the form of one's wrist while also calling attention to the wearer's strength and grace. The revolutionary bangle is additionally a microcosm of Western art historical themes, drawing from the undulating facade of Antonio Gaudi's Casa Mila, the melting metallic form of Dali's pocket watches in "The Persistence of Memory," and the actual human bones of monks seen by Peretti during her childhood trips to the 17th-century Capuchin crypt in Rome. Size of interior circumference: 5" (12.7 cm); of band: 1.7" W (4.3 cm); Tiffany & Co. size: extra small; silver quality: sterling; weight: 57.4 grams
The Bone Cuff is perhaps the most celebrated design of Elsa Peretti and was worn by celebrities such as Sophia Loren, Liza Minnelli, and style icon Diane Vreeland. More recently, the bangle was worn by Sarah Jessica Parker, as the Manhattan fashionista Carrie Bradshaw, in the first "Sex and the City" film, as well as Gal Gadot in "Wonder Woman 1984." In the words of Tiffanys own chief artistic officer, Reed Krakoff, "The Bone Cuff Peretti created five decades ago, perhaps the most recognizable piece of jewelry to have ever been designed, represents a unique artistic point of view that defies categorization."
Born and raised in Rome, Florence, and Switzerland, Peretti was determined to forge her own path from that of her wealthy, conservative family. She began her working life at 23 as an Italian teacher and ski instructor, before moving to Milan to pursue a degree in interior design and an apprenticeship with the architect Dado Torrigiani. After just a year, she changed course again and started modeling, first in Barcelona and then in New York City. She quickly fell into New York's inner circle of fashion girls, becoming one of designer Halstons favorite models alongside other household names of the late '70s scene, including Angelica Huston, Pat Cleveland, and Karen Bjornson, and eventually joining Andy Warhol's Studio 54 crowd. At the suggestion of Halston, she eventually began designing sculptural silver jewelry crafted to encase and highlight the liquid curves of the female form. The designer began working with Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and over time her pieces came to account for about 10% of the companys sales. She was named the company's lead jewelry designer in 1979. Peretti's works are now held in the permanent collections of many important museums such as the British Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts Boston and the Museum of Fine Arts Houston.
Tiffany & Co.'s "About" page for the artist reads, "The arrival of Elsa Peretti at Tiffany & Co. in 1974 signaled a revolution in jewelry design. On the day her first collection debuted, it sold out and elevated sterling silver to luxury status overnight. A true pioneer of design, her unique creations had a never-before-seen organic aesthetic... Having forever changed the way women wear jewelry, Perettis legacy will remain constant source of inspiration."
History of Tiffany & Co: "Founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and Teddy Young in New York City in 1837 as a 'stationery and fancy goods emporium,' the store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items, and operated as Tiffany, Young & Ellis in Lower Manhattan.
The name was shortened to Tiffany & Co. in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control, and the firm's emphasis on jewelry was established. Tiffany & Co. has since opened stores in major cities all over the world. Unlike other stores at the time in the 1830s, Tiffany clearly marked the prices on its goods, as there would be no haggling for the price. In addition, against the social norm at the time, Tiffany only accepted cash payments, and did not accept payments on credit.
The first Tiffany's mail order catalog, known as the 'Blue Book,' was published in 1845 in the United States and it is still being published today. In 1862, Tiffany & Co. supplied the Union Army with swords (Model 1840 Cavalry Saber), flags and surgical implements. In 1867, Tiffany & Co. was the first US firm to win an award for the excellence in silverware at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. In 1877, an insignia that would become the famous New York Yankees 'NY' logo was struck on a medal of honor by Tiffany & Co. and issued to the first NYC police officer shot in the line of duty. The Yankees adopted the logo in 1909. In 1878, Tiffany won the gold medal for jewelry and a grand prize for silverware at the Paris Exposition, which gave the Tiffany name added prestige. In 1868, Tiffany was incorporated. In 1887, Tiffany bought the French Crown Jewels which attracted publicity and further solidified the Tiffany brand's connection to quality diamonds. The company revised the Great Seal of the United States in 1885. In 1902, after the passing of Charles Lewis Tiffany, his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany became the company's first official Design Director." (Source: raresterling.com)
Provenance: private Broomfield, Colorado, USA collection
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#183070
- Condition: Marked "PERETTI TIFFANY & CO (c) ITALY 1978 STERLING" on interior. Some light scratches and scuffs from wear but otherwise intact, wearable, and in excellent overall condition. Accompanied by Tiffany & Co. bag.
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